A thousand-year-old treasure in Turkey: the Church of the Holy Cross on Akdamar island

In a remote and magical corner of Eastern Anatolia stands a symbol of faith, history and architecture: the Church of the Holy Cross on the island of Akdamar, Turkey. This ancient temple is not only a testament to the Armenian past of this corner of Anatolia, but also a place of Christian pilgrimage and art carved in stone and legend. For travellers interested in religious tourism, Akdamar offers a unique experience: a small island with a medieval cathedral, incredible views of Lake Van and a historic legacy that goes back centuries.

What is the Church of the Holy Cross in Akdamar?

The Church of the Holy Cross, also known as the Cathedral of the Holy Cross of Aghtamar or Surp Khach, is a medieval Armenian cathedral located on the island of Akdamar in Lake Van in the province of Van (Eastern Anatolia, Türkiye). It was built between AD 915 and 921 under the reign of Gagik I Artsruni, king of the ancient Kingdom of Vaspurakan.

For centuries it was the seat of the Armenian Catholicosate of Aghtamar (from 1116 to 1895). In 2007 it was opened as a museum, but since 2010 an annual mass has been held there, thanks to a special permit from the Turkish Ministry of Culture.

Features and curiosities of the church

The church is notable for several features that make it an exceptional monument:

• Its cruciform plan with four lobes (trefoil type), inspired by the church of St Hripsime in Vagharshapat (Armenia).
• It is built of volcanic tuff stone, which is reddish or dark in colour, giving it a unique and resistant appearance.
• One of its most fascinating features is an elaborate series of bas-reliefs covering the outer facades, depicting scenes from the Bible such as Jonah with the whale, Adam and Eve, David and Goliath, Samson, Daniel and others.
• Interior frescoes: although badly deteriorated today, remains of ancient paintings of the life of Christ and theological scenes are preserved.
• Height: the dome is approximately 20 metres above ground level.
• During the modern restoration carried out at the beginning of this century, contemporary infrastructures were added: footpaths, pedestrian access, toilets and observation areas.
• To power the facilities built on the island of Akdamar where the church is located, a solar power system was installed, and a pipeline was built under the lake to bring fresh water from the shore.

History of Akdamar

The history of the Church of the Holy Cross on the island of Akdamar dates back more than a thousand years and is marked by both the rise and fall of Armenian rule in this part of Eastern Anatolia.

Foundation and medieval period

• It was erected between 915 and 921 by order of King Gagik I Artsruni, and designed by the monk-architect Manuel.
• In the 10th century a complex including a royal palace, monastery, gardens and monastic lodgings was built on the island.
• From 1116, the church became the seat of the Armenian Catholicosate of Aghtamar, which remained active until the end of the 19th century.

Decline and abandonment

• In 1915, with the Ottoman Empire in the chaos of World War I, the church was sacked and the monastic buildings destroyed, leaving the complex abandoned. The following year the Ottoman government abolished the Armenian Catholicosate.
• In the following decades of the 20th century, the church gradually fell into ruin due to neglect. In 1951, the well-known Turkish writer Yaşar Kemal visited the church and discovered that it was to be demolished: thanks to his intervention and his contacts, the church was not demolished and in the following decades it became a tourist attraction in the region.

Restoration and new life

• Between 2005 and 2006, an ambitious restoration project promoted by the Turkish government was undertaken at great cost in order to preserve its artistic and historical value.
• In March 2007, after the restoration process was completed, it was reopened as a museum.
• In 2010, it was decided to place a 2-metre, 110 kg cross on its dome, and the first mass in 95 years was celebrated in the church, which has been attended every year since then by Armenian Orthodox Christians from inside and outside Turkey.
• In 2015 it was included in the UNESCO list as a candidate for World Heritage Site.

How to get to the Church of the Holy Cross in Turkey?

Getting to Akdamar Island requires some planning, but it is totally worth it. Akdamar Island is located in Lake Van, about 3 km from the shore. Administratively it belongs to the district of Gevaş, in the province of Van.

Access is by boat. The jetty is about 45km by road south of the town of Van, which also has a small airport. Ferries depart from a jetty near the southern shore of the lake, located just outside the town of Gevaş, with schedules that vary according to the season and the influx of travellers. The journey takes between 20 and 30 minutes.

Timetables and prices for visiting the church

Non-Turkish citizens must pay to visit the island. The entrance fee is normally paid at the ferry terminal before boarding the ship and usually costs around 12 euros. Admission is free if you buy a MuseumPass card, which allows you to visit more than 350 museums and archaeological sites in Turkey for 15 days.

Please note that the ferry usually operates during daylight hours and in high season there may be more crowds, although reservations are not necessary. The tour of the island usually lasts about an hour.

If you are interested in attending the annual mass, then you do need to plan ahead as it is only held once a year and usually attracts many visitors, especially from outside Turkey.

What can you see and do on Akdamar Island?

• Stroll around the outside of the cathedral and admire the impressive bas-reliefs, each depicting a biblical story.
• Enter the interior of the church to admire the remains of frescoes and the spiritual atmosphere of the place.
• Climb to the island’s lookout point: trails lead to high vantage points for breathtaking views overlooking the waters of the lake and the surrounding mountains.
• Have a picnic or a quiet stop: the island offers food courts, outdoor eating areas and rest areas.

Tips for visiting Akdamar

To make your experience at the Church of the Holy Cross on Akdamar Island as enriching as possible, keep these tips in mind:

1. Best in high season: in spring and summer the weather is more pleasant, the mountains are green and the boats run more frequently.
2. Arrive early: you’ll avoid the crowds that arrive later in the day, and you’ll be able to enjoy the relief and views at your leisure.
3. Bring water and some food: although there are facilities (cafeteria and toilets), they can be very crowded, so you’ll be more comfortable.
4. Wear comfortable shoes: the island’s terrain is rocky, and climbing to the viewpoints involves walking on trails.
5. Spiritual respect: although it’s a museum, it’s still a sacred place for many; respect sacred spaces and places of worship.
6. Photography: don’t forget to bring a good camera or your mobile phone; the outdoor reliefs are rich in detail, and the views from the island in good weather are well worth the effort.
7. Plan your return trip: the companies that operate the ferries to the island usually give you a limited time to visit the island, around an hour, so make sure you know the timetable and don’t miss your boat.

Other nearby attractions

If you’re already in the area around Lake Van to visit Akdamar Church, you can also take the opportunity to see other fascinating places nearby.

• The town of Van: with its historic fortress and the local museum, which houses relics of the ancient Urartu and Armenian Kingdom.
• Ahlat Tombs: on the northern shore of the lake is an impressive medieval cemetery with more than 8,000 carved 4-metre high tombstones, which are aspiring to become a World Heritage Site.
• St. Thomas Monastery (Surb Tovmas): located not far from the island of Akdamar, a few kilometres from the shore of the lake, is an ancient Armenian monastery built between the 10th and 11th centuries and offers breathtaking views of Lake Van and its surroundings.
• Karmravank: located halfway towards Surb Tovmas from the Akdamar pier is this ruined Armenian monastery, also founded by King Gagik I of the Artsruni dynasty.

As you can see, the church of the Holy Cross located on the island of Akdamar, in eastern Turkey, is a destination that offers many secrets and places to visit full of history, which will arouse the curiosity of any traveller eager to learn about the past of this fascinating region of Anatolia. This is a place where stone and legend intertwine, where the past and the silence of Lake Van invite reflection and contemplation. Do you dare to visit it?

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